Sunday, June 8, 2025

Greenwich the home of communication - beacons, telegraphs and cables


 

Greenwich is the ‘home of communication’.[1] This phrase has been used in connection with the massive telecommunications cable industry in Greenwich and Woolwich.  However if communication is a means of passing messages between people there were clearly older methods of doing this and they too have a relevance to Greenwich and in particular to Shooters Hill.

Perhaps one early indication of this is the formation in 1513 of a guild of mariners who wanted a fraternity to regulate pilotage on the River. [2] In 1514 they received a charter as the Guild and Brotherhood of the most Glorious and Undivided Trinity of Saint Clements in the parish of Deptford Strond in the County of Kent.   Thus Trinity House itself was formed locally and continues to undertake work to reflect its original aims around the safety of mariners – and this clearly involved means of passing information at sea and on the river. We will return to them.

William Lambarde was the Kentish historian after whom Lambarde Wall in Charlton is named and who was a Greenwich landowner.  His ‘Perambulations of Kent ‘published in 1570 mentions a beacon on Shooters Hill.  Although for Lambarde this was a new and important means of communication, as a historian he knew that beacons were a much older technology and he mentions that the word ‘beacon’ itself has Saxon roots. He says that before the reign of Edward III they were made of stacks of woods but that more sophisticated methods had been developed using a pot of tar on a high pole.    It is also clear that by the 16th century use of beacons was well known, and in localities, there was organisation and people who knew what to do and how to do it.  The accounts of the Eltham churchwardens give details of payments for watching the beacon at Shooters Hill in the 1560s and 1570s [3]

In 1566 The Seamarks Act enabled Trinity House to ‘make direct and set up ......  beacons, marks and signs for the sea’.  Most famously in 1588 a chain of beacons were set up for the Spanish Armada by which the first sighting on the south coast could be relayed as a message to the London in half an hour.  Lanmbarde’s map shows announced that Kent beacons were aligned so as to relay the messages to eventually reach Shooters Hill and it is possible the other county network also ended there making Shooters Hill the pivotal point for relaying information on to London. [4]

Eventually the fire beacons were replaced by mechanical devices. I n 1795  Lord George Murray, , proposed a system of visual telegraphy to the British Admiralty using a rectangular framework tower with six, five feet high octagonal shutters that flipped between horizontal and vertical positions to signal.  This was set up in September 1796 London to Deal, with Shooters Hill lying between New Cross and Swanscombe.  Messages from Deal could reach London in about sixty seconds.  Later, a simpler semaphore system invented by Home Popham was used.  This was a single fixed vertical 30 foot pole, with two movable arms attached. A line was set up between the Admiralty and Chatham in 1816 as an experiment. [5]

Later, a simpler semaphore system invented by Home Popham was used. This was a single fixed vertical 30 foot pole, with two movable arms attached. A line was set up between the Admiralty and Chatham in 1816 as an experiment. 

The Shooters Hill telegraph was in the Hazelwood’s Fields, later called Telegraph Field.[6]  It is now the site of the Memorial Hospital.  The earlier Murray telegraph can be seen in a print by Robert Pocock of a hanging on Shooters Hill.[7]

Another telegraph in the area of Greenwich Borough was at Coxe’s Mount in what is now Maryon Park, Charlton. It can be seen marked as ‘Telegraph’ on the 1866 Ordnance map.  It connected to the Shooters Hill telegraph station but its use and any subsequent station of which it connected is not clear. Was it able to signal across the river?  Or was it used by the Royal Dockyard and the military in Woolwich?  It is said had an adjacent wall with a line of large letters shown on it which was used by the Admiralty Compass Laboratory which stood at the back of houses in Maryon Road and was reached, presumably, by what is now Hawkins Terrace.[8]

As mechanical signalling systems were developed so scientists are becoming aware that electrical systems were a possibility and some experiments were carried out in our area.  Many sources reference what they say it was an attempt by Richards Watson, Bishop of Landaff, to research electrical transmission at Shooters Hill.[9]  This is almost certainly untrue and the experiments were actually carried out by a William Watson with the Royal Society in 1747.

In August 1747 a group of Royal Society members met William Watson at Shooters Hill and stood at the seventh and ninth milestones holding iron rods.[10] They were connected to a battery in a house on the hill and the idea was to see if they would feel that the shock from it. A year later this was replicated. They did feel shocks after some adjustments and the experiment was seen as a success.[11]

We must keep in mind that signalling of all sorts was very much the business of military and naval operations.  Telegraph systems were set up by the Admiralty and there is clearly a long history of communication within the Royal Navy based on flags, in systems codified in the late 18th and 19th centuries.[12]  It is however unthinkable that there was not some research by scientists and technicians at the Royal Military Academy and by the Royal Engineers in Woolwich. 

In the Royal Engineers a key figure in introducing flag signalling into the army is General Sir Charles Pasley who was a pupil in Woolwich at the Royal Military Academy from 1796 and who was to work closely with the Admiralty. Transferred from Woolwich he was responsible for the setting up of the First School of Field Instruction as a joint effort of the Admiralty and the Royal Engineers in Chatham Dockyard in 1812 and the beginning of communications technologies in the Royal Engineers and what became the Royal Corps of Signals. [13] Pasley was also closely involved in the development of signalling systems in the early railway industry, notably initially in the London and Greenwich Railway.[14]

There were many researchers who contributed to the development of the electric telegraph and several were part of the Royal Military Academy. Faraday himself held an appointment there as Professor of Chemistry. Another staff member was Peter Barlow who also made a number of experiments and investigations into electro-magnetism. A key figure in the development of the electrical telegraph was however an ordinary private soldier in Woolwich. William Sturgeon was a shoemaker from Lancashire who enlisted in the army in 1802.  His spare time experiments in atmospheric electricity gained the attention of students and professors at the Royal Military Academy. In 1820 he left the army and set up as a boot maker in Woolwich and was a founder of the Woolwich Literary Society. He was later appointed to an academic post in the East India Company College at Addiscombe and subsequent appointments in Manchester.[15]  Sturgeon developed a range of ground breaking electrical devices among them an electro magnet which became a basis for the development of electric telegraphy.

It is however in the more practical field of telegraphy that Greenwich and Woolwich factories were better known in the dominance of Telcon[16] and Siemens.  Cable making grew out of rope making and the Enderby Brothers with their rope works at east Greenwich were well known. In 1837 William Cooke, the pioneer inventor of the telegraph approached Enderby Brothers for help in making insulated rope, this was said to be for a ‘cross Thames experiment’.[17] It is not known if anything came of this and it would be amazing to find that some of the earliest telegraphs used products from this site which was to become so famous in this field.

 

Over the next few years telegraphs were set up on the railways and companies began to sell telegraphs commercially.  Following an agreement between the South Eastern Railway and the Astronomer Royal Greenwich Mean Time was transmitted to the provinces. On the roof of the English and Irish Magnetic Telegraph Company’s offices in the Strand a time ball was erected and electrically linked to the time  ball at the Greenwich Observatory so that they fell at the same time. As a result of these initiatives Greenwich Mean Time was sent all round the country.[18]

If telegraphy was to become international then a way had to be found to lay cables across oceans.   Various ways of protecting the cables were tried and an eventual solution discovered in the use of gutta percha – a natural substance obtained from a tree growing in south east Asia.  It was handled and exploited through the Gutta Percha Company based in Islington.  In 1850 a cable was laid between England and France.  It wasn’t very good but things could improve.[19]

William Kuper was a wire rope manufacturer, based on the Surrey Canal in Camberwell.  The firm became bankrupt in 1849 and a George Elliott became their agent and manager. He moved the works to Morden Wharf in Greenwich having got an order to armour the submarine cable laid in the Dover Straits in 1851.[20]  Elliott was a mining engineer from the north of England where he was a major figure, to become MP and a baronet.[21] Having taken over Kuper he asked a Richard Glass to co-operate with him. Glass was an accountant, also a future MP and knight. [22]  Kuper’s became Glass Elliott.

A number of works had been involved in the manufacture of submarine cables, most successful were Newell’s at Gateshead. Gradually the construction of cables was improved. In Greenwich Glass Elliott, now on Morden Wharf began cable manufacture. An innovation was to store cable in circular water filled pits. Gutta Percha was supplied from Islington.[23] Telegraph companies were formed, cables were made and successfully laid and Glass Elliott were in the forefront.[24]

In 1854 Glass Elliott bought the site of the now defunct Enderby canvas and rope works.[25] It came with a deep water wharf and an existing rope walk.  In 1857 they were visited by William Thomson, future Lord Kelvin, representing the new Atlantic Telegraph Company.  There was serious money behind the proposed cable to cross the Atlantic, and the cable, of an enormous length, needed to be perfect.[26]

The laying of the Atlantic cable is one of the big romantic stories of the mid 19th century. It was followed closely by the press and there are many many illustrations. “I did cheer but I could more have silently cried. They may, long after we are gone, tell their children what we did’.[27]

The first try to lay the Atlantic cable was in 1857. The core was made at the Gutta Percha works and the cable itself divided between Newalls and Glass Elliott and it was laid by two old war ships.  The cable broke they tried again and it worked for a bit, and then failed.

It was eight years before they tried again, and by that time Newalls were no longer interested and all the cable was thence made in Greenwich. In 1864 Glass Elliott and the Gutta Percha Company merged to become The Telegraph Construction and Maintenance Co. – Telcon.  At Greenwich large underwater tanks were built at Enderby Wharf to store the cable under the direction of William Thompson.[28] They approached the Atlantic Telegraph Company and it was agreed to try again.[29]

For this third try it was agreed that the cable needed to be laid in one continuous length – but the size and weight of this was enormous.  It happened that Brunel’s vast Great Eastern was doomed as a failure and available. They bought her at a knock down price. She could not only take the cable but provide a lot of space for workshops and laboratories as well as many passengers. The cable was loaded from Greenwich onto a hulk and transferred to Great Eastern off Sheerness. Despite all the care that went into laying the cable a fault developed and the cable was broken and there was no choice but to abandon the attempt.[30]

In June 1866 Great Eastern left again for the Atlantic and as she went bands played ‘Goodbye Sweetheart’. This time everything went smoothly and on the 27th of July she arrived at Heart’s Content to cheering crowds and a salute fired by all the ships n the harbour. The cable had been laid.

Great Eastern then went back into the Atlantic to look for the broken cable from the 3rd attempt.  When the instruments at Valentia began to move they showed that the broken cable had been found in mid Atlantic, spliced, and that there was now a second functioning cable.  perhaps the point is that that those instruments were able to tell both Europe and America what had happened and the information revolution was in progress.

Today we take international communication for granted.  on the Internet we receive instantaneous connections to America and other countries all round the world and we think nothing of it. It all happens because of the research and development in the technology of underwater cables, much of which research was done in Greenwich.  To outline the history of this site after 1865 is to give a long succession of technological breakthroughs and success.  Clearly the cables we have today are nothing like those of but it has been research here which has designed these changed. The factory itself has gone through a succession of changes in ownership and those owners have had other sites where research and manufacturing have been part of the changes. The Greenwich site survives.[31]

In addition the Greenwich site has remained a manufacturing base which for many years up to the 1920s was making the vast majority of cables which went under water round the world.  They continue with devices which enable and enhance transmission. For many years cable ships regularly called at Enderby Wharf to load cable.  The last was the John H. McKay which was retained as a monument for some years and what now remains is the equipment on the Enderby jetty used for more transmitting cable on to the ships. 

Today the site is a housing estate although Alcatel still undertakes research and some manufacturing on what was the Blackwall Lane end of the site.  A local group is working to try and get some heritage input into the future of the estate in Enderby house.  To return to 1865 and Great Eastern it may also be of interest that an attempt is being made to turn Heart’s Content in Newfoundland and Valentia in Ireland into a sort of joint World Heritage Site.

However the factory at Enderby Wharf was not the only research based works in the Borough enabling innovation in telecoms equipment.

 

William Siemens had come to England from Prussia in 1843 to develop his inventions in electrical engineering.[32] His brother Werner had already founded Siemens and Halske in Berlin and was making telegraph cables.  William opened a factory in Woolwich in 1863 to work with his brothers on cable making but by 1873 the Woolwich factories were independent with a site covering four acres and a workforce of over 2000.  They were to design their own cable laying ship in 1874, the Faraday. They also moved into other electrical engineering fields with initiatives like electric arc steelmaking and expanded the Woolwich site with a chemical department and its own central electricity generating station, the first in a British factory.  By the 1890s Siemens probably accounted for a third of total British electrical and telegraphic production.  in 1891 they made the first vast British submarine telephone cable and from 1903 they made batteries and telephone line material. Materials were transferred round the site by an electrically driven overhead transit system. in 1900 the motor and dynamo departments moved to Stafford and buildings were converted to make paper insulated cable and insulated wires for a wide range of applications. The site continued to grow with huge amounts of manufacturing capacity, office blocks and amenity space. In 1913 the firm took out a patent for the first British telephone exchange thus cutting it reliance on the Berlin works. They also began to make and assemble telephones.

During the Great War links with Berlin were further reduced but otherwise work continued. field telephones became an important part of manufacture. After the War there was an increase in work with a junction box factory added, increased manufacture of ‘candlestick’ telephones and of batteries.  There was also a return to submarine cables. In 1930 the neophone was introduced, [33]replacing the candlesticks and these were made exclusively at Woolwich. In the late 1930s submarine cable work and was transferred to Greenwich following a merger with Telcon

In the Second World War the Siemens factories were heavily bombed. wartime work included the Clyde Loop. a submarine suite cable designed to pick up on magnetic bombs. The firm was also used to design and manufacture the HAIS cable laid across the English channel as part of the PLUTO operation in 1944.

After the war they concentrated and telecommunications and engineering including a new instrument factory and marine radio school with a special building used for training in the use of radar. [34]

The company had undergone a final disengagement from its German roots and in 1954 was taken over by Associated Electrical Industries in creating Siemens Edison Swan in 1957. in 1967 this was taken over by General Electric Company by which time the Woolwich Factory was mainly involved in making Strowger telephone exchanges for the Post Office.  GEC was unwilling to invest in modernisation and closed the Woolwich Works in 1968. [35]

Siemens works was replaced by the Westminster Industrial Estate, plus some demolitions for the Thames Barrier and many buildings remain.[36]

A much smaller site adjacent to the Siemens works was the General Post Office cable depot which dated from the 1880s and was used by the newly nationalized Post Office to store cable before it was taken out to sea. It is said huge cast iron tanks survive in site. It  was used until 1970s and is still called ‘Cable Depot’ although now consisting of light industrial units.[37]          

 

It’s my perhaps be important in terms of market communication trade center of shooters hill and some other end east of the seventies there uncovered by local blogger.

 

He/she notes  many communications masts which are mobile phone or emergency service communication masts, including the one on the old fire station in Eaglesfield Road and mobile phone antennae attached to the 29th century Water Tower on the crest of the hill. There are also others for taxis or the ambulance service. A mast Foxcroft Road is for FM and DAB radio. The Port of Lojdon Authority had a mast just off Shooters Hill Road for their Automatic Identification System which identifies  and locates ships around the world and also has a direct microwave link to thePLA Vessel Traffic Services radar station at Blackwall Stairs. They also note that the Ham Radio Cray Valley Radio Society  have been known to hold meetings in the Bull, apparently  the highest pub in South London.

As the blogger points out, there will be more to come.[38]



[1] This was the title of a booklet produced by Alcatel in 2000 about their work

[3] White. The Beacon System Kent. Arch Cant 46 1934

[4] White

[5] http://e-shootershill.co.uk/2011/12/02/seven-centuries-of-signalling/

[6] https://www.ldwa.org.uk/ldp/downloads/TimeballandTelegraphTrail.pdf

[7] This is reproduced on the e-shootersill site web site, and elsewhere. There are many collections of Pocock’s prints but the actual location of this one is unknown to me.

[8] A visit to the Compass Laboratory. Household Words. Vol. 3 1851. Also Mariners Mirror Vol 24

[9] This has been widely cited and seems to originate from writings by a Col.Bagnold who contributed to local history newsletters on Shooters Hill. Cf http://e-shootershill.co.uk/2011/12/02/seven centuries of signalling

[10] The existing Ypres Milestone on Shooters Hill is 8 miles from London Bridge. So the 7th milestone would have been some yards east of on the corner with Charlton Park Lane and the 9th – which is not show on Ordnance maps – must have been near the current Greenwich/Bexley border

[11] O’Boyle. https:/royalgreenwichtime.com/2014/01/14/shocking-experiments-in-shooters-hill/   also Transactions of the Royal Society October 1748

[12] https://royal-signals.org.uk/

[13] https://www.royal-signals.org.uk/

[14] Thomas. London’s First Railway

[15] DNB

[16] Over the past 170 odd years the Greenwich riverside factory has had a variety of names and owners.  It began as Glass Elliott and is currently Alcatel Submarine Networks. ‘Telcon’ has been its most enduring name however.

[17] Kieve. The Electric Telegraph

[18] Kieve

[19] Standage. The Victorian Internet

[20] Kieve

[21] DNB

[22] DNB.  An obituary in Kentish Mercury, 1868, says that he was Secretary to the Stock Exchange but this is not mentioned elsewhere.

[23] Telcon Story

[24] Kieve

[25] Hill & Jeal Greenwich Centre for Global Telecommunications

[26] Telcon Story

[27] Attributed to Daniel Gooch and quoted in Telcon Story

[28] Hill & Jeal

[29] Telcon Story

[30] There are many many accounts of the laying of the Atlantic cable some of which are referred to above.  However the story this far is told in detail by W.H. Russell in The Atlantic Telegraph published in 1866, -a book on which the others very much depend

[31] Many of these changes are described in detail in the Telcon Story which covers the history of the Greenwich works until the 1950s.  Work until 2000 is described in Greenwich Centre for Global Telecommunications from 1850 but this is just a booklet.  A vast amount of detail is included in numerous documents published and linked to in the Atlantic Cable web site and there is also an archive at the Portcurno museum in Cornwall

[32] Siemens PLC. Sir William Siemens. A Man of Vision

[33] The neophone is essentially the model of telephone we all had in our homes and offices until mobiles were invented. http://www.britishtelephones.com/neophon.htm

[34] Survey of Woolwich.  Scott. Siemens Brothers 1858-1958. Also see http://greenwichindustrialhistory.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/siemens-woolwich-history.html

[35] In the 1970s I had some meetings with Charlie Wellard, trade union convenor for the works – their union meetings were held in Woolwich Odeon.  He had a large and interesting archive of union activity in the works. I have no idea where this went after his death. It was sometimes rumoured locally that GEC’s decision to close rested on their unwillingness to have dealings with Charlie.

[36] http://greenwichindustrialhistory.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/siemens-woolwich-site-notes.html.   I would like to thank Brian Middlemiss and members of the Siemens Engineering Society for notes, and help with this information which was submitted to the Council in order to turn some of the site into a conservation area.

[37] Survey of Woolwich

[38] http://e-shootershill.co.uk/2011/12/02/seven-centuries-of-signalling/

The Harbour Masters House and the coal trade

 


In 1857 the Thames Conservancy was constituted, and three years later that, body took a 76 years' lease of the Greenwich property, the area leased including Union Wharf (which was definitely a Thames Conservancy wharf), the house and a garden behind it. Captain James, transferred by the Corporation of the City of London, was the first Chief Harbour Master of the Conservancy. In 1890 the Conservancy agreed to surrender the lease of the estate in part, including the Harbour Master's Office house. It has been suggested that the surrender came about, through the Conservancy, which had hitherto divided the River Thames below Kew into Upper, Central and Lower Controls, deciding to abandon the central district as a separate division. None the less, for a while, one of the Conservancy's Deputy Harbour Masters continued to live in the house.

A Greenwich directory for 1895 shows a Captain Bowen residing at the Harbour Master's Office, and there is definite evidence showing when he had entered the Thames Conservancy's service. I have been able to handle an old, tumbling-to-pieces handbook, which this Captain Bowen started to write in while he was Master of the steamer Edinburgh Castle on a voyage from London to Penang in 1879. His notes regarding this voyage conclude,  " July 8th, 9 a.m. Anchor'd in Penang Harbour all well." At sea he ceased to use this notebook, apparently, for it switches over a page or two to this unmistakable entry: " Appointed D.H. Master under Thames Conservancy, December 19th, 1881." Quite natural, then, that Captain Bowen should be living at the Greenwich Harbour Master's Office—seemingly used as a residence, but no longer owned by the Conservancy in 1895 ; I believe that, between times, he lived for a. while at the Harbour Master's Office, Limehouse (Narrow Street), which was demolished in 1925. 

Captain Defrates, formerly one of the P.L.A. Assistant Harbour Masters, who retired from the service in 1927, has recollection of the time previous to the Authority taking over from the Conservancy when there were two Harbour Masters—Captain Fitzgerald and Captain Marsden—and Captain Bowen was deputy to the first of these. The pair above named retired in 1898, and Captain Bowen then became Chief Harbour Master, with deputies at. Woolwich and Gravesend. He remained in office for about five years, retiring early in the present century. From that time to the establishment of the Port Authority, the Harbour Service work was divided into two sections, one with its office in London (Temple Pier, Old Swan Pier, and now Tower Pier) and one with its office at Gravesend. The Harbour Masters then appointed were Captain R. S. Pasley (Upper District) and Captain A. W. Wilson (Lower District). 

In the 1890's—the Thames Conservancy being in charge of river responsibilities—T.C. Head Office was at 41 Trinity Square, but the Harbour Master had his quarters on the hulk Marlborough, moored, off the Tower Gardens. Then when the Conservancy moved its head office to the Thames Embankment, the Harbour Master operated from Temple Pier and the Marlborough was sent away into exile and became storeship to the T.C. Survey Department.

 From a " Return of the Names and Emoluments of the Harbour Service 1851-1852 " (Corporation of the City of London) which was shown to me at the Guildhall, I am permitted to extract these details: " The Principal Superintending Harbour Master, Chief office, St. Katharine's," received, in addition to his salary, a house, £5 for a servant, £2 for candles, £l for wood, 10 tons of coal, and £25 for travelling allowance. It is in this document that the name of Captain Rowlands occurs. He and each of his deputies received also a boat cloak, minor assistants getting simply a greatcoat. Boat cloaks were served out every two years and greatcoats every three years, distribution always being in October. An assistant employed in the Greenwich Office was given " a pair of water boots," but they had to last him four years! The Clerk of Stores received quarters in what is now Port of London Wharf, occupied by Messrs. Gregson & Company, Ltd.

 Meanwhile, a short way down river, another way of dealing with the inciming coal traffic was being gtried.

'Atlas 1' was a coaling derrick or pontoon operated from 1862 in the Port of London by William Cory and Sons - one of the largest importers of coal on the Thames. It was a double-ended vessel 250 feet long by 90 feet wide and was originally built for salvage work by the Thames Ironworks for the Patent Derrick Company. This became insolvent before delivery and its was sold instead to Cory's, converted to tranship coal using steam-driven derricks, from sea-going colliers alongside into river barges and lighters, mainly by the shutes visible here. The advantage of such a vessel was that colliers could thus discharge in the river, without having to wait for the tide in order to dock conventionally. At a time when various ways rapid transhipment of coal were being developed, not least by the Royal Navy, 'Atlas 1' was the first facility able to move a ton a minute. In 1865 it was joined by 'Atlas II', both being moored in Bugsby's Reach between Greenwich and Woolwich, which is presumably the location shown here, looking west at sunset. They were still in use in 1901 but appear to have been replaced by newer pontoons further downstream by 1915. (
Read more at http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/14688.html#ZDWHKtmVQwCvcguE.99

 

 

Greenwich mills - windmills, watermills, tide mills

 


Every industrial history has to describe the local mills. But Greenwich it appears has very few, in fact only two of which there can be any detailed description.  Most people will think at first of windmills but Greenwich has only twp, one ling gone and one now converted to a pub and several which once stood on Blackheath, are on the Lewisham side of the border.  Water Mills – we can offer a pair of tide mills, but as far as water mills are concerned; only one is inside the Greenwich border.  As we shall see the important and interesting ones are all in the Borough of Lewisham.

Windmills

The earliest known and perhaps most important windmill in the borough was that known as the Shipwright’s mill built in Woolwich in 1758.  It is important for who built it and why it was built rather than in its structure as a mill.  It was built by the Shipwrights Society from Woolwich Dockyard as a co-operative and is thus one of the earliest co-ops recorded.  It stood in ‘Conduit Field’ in what is now Woolwich New Road, which was then called Mill Lane or Cholic Lane and was slightly south of what is now called Engineers House.  Soon after its construction it was burnt down in an arson attac which attracted government attention, it was soon rebuilt.   A drawing from 1845, by which time it was vacant and derelict shows an octagonal timber smock mill .  It appears to have been let eventually to a private miller, was empty by the 1840s and demolished by the 1850s.[1]  

It is thought that the Shipwigfhts Mill it was a successor to several others which stood in the area until the 18th century.[2]  It is also possible that another mil stood  in the early 19th century in the vicinitu  of Nightingale Place. [3]

The only windmill in the borough of which there are any remains is that which is now a pub called The Old Mill in Old mill Lane on Plumstead Common.  It is fnught to date from at least 1786 or earlier all and is thus possibly the earliest tower mill in this part of Kent .[4]In 1848 it was converted into a brew house, being disused. What remains is a four-storey brick tower which had four sails and a domed cap.

It is possible that there were mills in the south part of the Borough. There is reference to ‘a stump windmill’ at  Horn Park Farm in 1833.[5]

It is perhaps remarkable that on the long ridge of hillside from Shooters Hill down to Deptford there are only these two windmills and maybe others remain to be discovered, although there is no known map evidence for them.  And there were however mills on Blackheath and it is unfortunate that these are all in Lewisham Borough albeit within less than 100 yards of the Greenwich boundary. The boundary here is the main A2 road crossing the Heath.  It is assumed, for want of other evidence, that these were all mills which ground corn.

It is thought that a windmill once stood on the Greenwich side of Blackheath at the north end of West Grove in the southwest corner of this area which was once called Windmill Field.[6]  There was possibly another windmill on the east side of the Ravensbourne north of Deptford Bridge until at least 1840. [7]  From an illustration that was a smock mill maybe assocated with a tannery.[8]

South of the boundary a mill stood adjacent to Hollyhedge House in the late 17th century, and is described as an open trestle postmill and the earliest on the Heath. [9]  It is thought that this was encroachment on Heath allowed for the mill and that the house followed in due course.[10] The house is now a centre for the Territorial Army and the mill site is a mound with a water tank standing on it.[11]

Another was in what is now Morden Hill.[12]  This was extant in 1745 but was built after 1706 as another open trestle post mill[13]. It should be note that there is modern housing in a ‘Windmill Close’ here.

Two mills were near what is now Talbot Place known as the East Mill and the West Mill, apparently to replace the demolished Hollyhedge Mill. They were on encroachments on the heath, granted by the Dartmouth Estate on a site where sand and gravel extraction was active in the area now called Blackheath Vale.[14] Goffers Road on Blackheath was once called Windmill Road and must have run past them. [15]  Both mills were the subject of many paintings of the Heath and thus their eventual states of dereliction can be noted.[16]

West Mill. This stood on the site of the current ere Mill House, built in 1836.[17]  It y have been the Holly Hedge Mill, dragged across the Heath when the lease expired around 1770[18] and it appears to have had the same miller. It appears to have been demolished in 1835.[19]

East Mill stood to the rear of houses in Duke Humphrey Road near the corner with Talbot Place and was thought to date from around 1770 and may have been standing in 1842 but was demolished by 1850.[20] It too may have come here from elsewhere – and may well have been the mill which previously stood near Morden Hill.[21]

Watermills

The area of the Borough of Greenwich is deficient in fast running streams suitable for mills.  There were a series of mills worked by the power of the tides and we will come to them.  As far as the more usual sort of mill is concerned a few streams trickle down the hillside from Shooters Hill to the Thames but do not ever seem to have been developed for milling.  The only substantial stream boundary is the Ravensbourne; the boundary with Lewisham historically running at the centre of the stream that now on the Greenwich bank.  This means that the Greenwich boundary runs alongside two important mills.  They are so close that it is worth noting them.

The Brookmill was on the site of what became the Kent Waterworks. It is immediately south of the A2 Dover Road at Deptford Bridge in an area which has now been developed as a park. This mill was noted in 1586[22]  and in the seventeenth century was owned by John Evelyn. It was taken over in 1701 and eventfully became the Kent Waterworks, and then the Metropolitan Water Board.[23]

Further south still and bordering onto Tesco is the site of the Armoury Mill – noted in an earlier chapter as the mill attached to the Royal Armoury in Greenwich.  The mill is first noted in 1299 as a corn mill called Toddesmill.  After the Armoury had left for Enfield the mill was put up for sale.  It was then used for the ‘throwing’ of silk and gold and silver wire drawing.  In the 1880s they began to develop and make what became known as tinsel – and which they sold in huge quantities.  The company closed in the 1920s and the mill continued to be used by a succession of businesses until the Second World War. The site was partly cleared, and any finds destroyed. In the 1980s the area of the mill pond became Tesco car park.[24]  Modern flats on the site are called ‘The Silk Works’.

Tide Mills

Tide mills were once common on tidal rivers and there were several along the Thames – and probably more to be identified. The mill wheel is turned by the incoming tide and can then be impounded in a pond behind the mill and to process reversed.  We can identify four in our area, one on the Ravensbourne, two ancient one and one 18th century one on the Thames.

The early medieval tide mill discovered in the early 21st century has been described in an earlier chapter. A great deal of information about it is still unclear. It is also said that a tide-mill operated in Pot Mead, on the Deptford Riverside at what was later Borthwick Wharf.[25]

The one remaining mill structure in Greenwich is Mumford’s Mill, now converted to flats.  It is however impossible to describe it without its earlier history as part of the Old Flood Mill (in Lewisham). 

This mill site probably dates from before Domesday when mills in Lewisham are noted. It is first identified in 1157 when the rents for a Deptford mill were granted to Bermondsey Abbey. The Abbey retained this income until the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 1530s.  It was later acquired by Christ’s Hospital. The mill itself, known as the 'Flodmell', was established north of Deptford Bridge by the fourteenth century and operated here until it was destroyed by flooding in 1824.[26]

 It was re-built by J H Robinson, who turned it into an 8 floor steam-powered roller flour mill with the creek only used for barge traffic.[27] Later the mill buildings expanded towards Deptford Bridge and also covered the former osier ground, later the Skill centre site. The mill closed in the 1960s, and was demolished after a fire in 1970.[28] The site has since been used as a Lewisham training centre.

The eastern part of the site however is in Greenwich. There was a limekiln and wharf on the east bank of the Ravensbourne by 1481. This was later the site now now occupied by Mumford's Mill and new housing on what was a Cash and Carry.  Mumford's Mill was founded in 1790 and the present building was erected in 1897. It included a ‘towering, visually arresting, technologically sophisticated grain silo’. This was designed by the architect, Aston Webb and ‘it perhaps also signalled in suitably attention grabbing form the final complete change over from traditional stone milling to roller milling”.[29]  The mill survived into the 1960s by specialising in cake flours. It then became home to a number of small businesses and has now been converted into flats.

There remains one other mill. This is the early 19th century tide mill built in East Greenwich as part of a proposed new industrial area.

 

The mill, was sited on a remote part of riverside in the earliest days of the 19th century  developed as part of ‘New East Greenwich’ by a soap maker,  George Russell [30] and soon after he applied for permission to build a wharf and causeway into the river.[31]  This causeway was to remain in place until 1999 when it was removed by the New Millennium Experience Company. Soon after a William Johnson constructed a mill here for Russell.[32]  Russell also built a pub, the Pilot, which still stands and a group of cottages and tenements, as well as a ‘big house’ called East Lodge.  The mill was described by Olinthus Gregory while still under construction. [33]

In 1803 it was the scene of an explosion in the boiler of the high pressure steam developed by the Cornish engineer, Richard Trevithick.  This famous accident, in which a number of workmen were killed, was caused by negligence on the part of the boy in charge of the engine but did great harm to Trevithick and to steam engine development.[34]

The mill seems to have been used for grinding corn but within a very short time developed problems with its construction and had to be rebuilt.[35]  It was bought by Frank Hills in 1842 who used is as the site of a chemical works processing gas industry purification waste.[36]

Frank Hills had bought the mill in 1842.  Colourful and unscrupulous he is generally described as ‘the Deptford chemist’.  In fact his interests extended far beyond Greenwich and Deptford and he was to die a very rich man. He died in 1895. The tide mill site was sold to the South Metropolitan Gas Company.  They continued to run the chemical works as their Phoenix Works and this remained into the 1980s.  The site is now largely grassland north of the Pilot. The mill building was eventually demolished. It is not clear when and it may or may not appear in photographs into the 1920s. The massive mill ponds to the west of the mill appear on Goad plans of 1927 and may have persisted for longer. A feature marked ‘cooling pond’ is sown in the same place on maps of the early 1950s.  It was otherwise completely forgotten.[37]



[1] Survey of Woolwich

[2] Survey of Woolwich

[3] Cumming. The Windmills of North West Kent and Kentish London

[4] Cumming

[5] Cumming.

[6] Rhind. The Heath

[7] Philpotts.

[8] Cumming

[9] Cumming.

[10] Ideal Homes. Web site. A drawing of this mill from a collection in the British Museum is reproduced on the Blackheath Society Web site. It shows a timber mill alongside the house.

[11] Cumming.

[12] Rhind. The Heath.

[13] Cumming

[14] Rhind. The Heath.

[15] Running Past. Blog site. The author reproduces a painting of 1835 of the two Talbot Place mills, by Edward Cooke from the Victoria and Albert Museum, reserved collection.  It shows two timber mills some distance apart in a rural setting and with what appear to be chalk extraction in the foreground. For interest the author has included a modern photograph from the same spot – showing the open heath with sports facilities

[16] Cumming

 

[17] British Listed Buildings. Web site

[18] Cummings. In a comment on the Blackheath Society web page

[19] Rhind. Blackheath Village and its Environs,

[20] Rhind Blackheath Village and its Environs.

[21] Cumming

[22] Philpotts. Deptford Creek

[23] Steele. Turning the Tide.

[24] McCartney and West. The Lewisham Silk Mills.

[25] Philpotts

[26] Philpotts

[27] Greenwich Industrial History Newsletter. Vol. 2/2

[28] Philpotts

[29] Clarke for English Heritage. Mumford’s Flour Mil.

[30] Russell v. Sharpe Chancery 1808

[31] City Conservators.  Minutes

[32] Patent 2411 “Machine for obtaining a self moving power or perpetual motion; is cited as the relevant patent among several taken out by Johnson.  See The Engineer 12 VIII 1901. Johnson also wrote an article explaining his system in the Times 20th December 1800.  The mill has recently been descried and analysed by Brian Strong in London’s Industrial Archaeology

[33] Gregory. Mechanics. 1807

[34] Weale. Treatise on the Steam Engine. Also extracts in James Watt papers (notes thanks to Rev.Dr.Richard Hills), Southwark Inquests. City of London Record Office, Times 16 September 1803. Trevithick. Life of Richard Trevithick,

[35] Greenland. Brian Donkin. Brian Donkin’s diary, (Derbyshire Record Office)

[36][36] There is no biography I am aware of.  See chapters in my PhD Thesis The Early Gas Industry, OU 1995. Also Mary Mills. The Early East London Gas industry and its waste products. 1998.  The same information in similar chapters on Hills can be found in Belton. Founded on Iron. 2003

[37] A detailed history of the mill, by me, is awaiting publication in London’s Industrial Archaeology.

Wire Mills

  Well, I thought that this week I ought to get back to writing about Greenwich industries and   individual small industrial sites. That mea...