As ever on a Saturday I was sitting wondering what to do next week for my Weekender article. For weeks I’d been thinking rather guiltily that I’d never done the Tramshed in Woolwich. I didn’t know an awful lot about it and it seemed very difficult to find out more – well more than who was doing stand up there in 1980!
I was also still thinking about what I did last week - the Land’s End power plant. It was on the Arsenal site, mysterious, and secret. It seems to have begun as a hydraulic power station and ended as an electrical substation. I daresay we’ll find out more about it as time goes on but it got me thinking about substations - buildings between the power generating works and whatever it is that needs electricity to function. I am very aware here that I’m unfamiliar with the technology and certainly don’t understand the language used about it - but then, I guess, neither do 99% of my readers, so maybe they we can all try and find out what was going on in using terms we all understand.
Substations –I realise they come in many shapes and sizes, but I what I wanted to look at here were the small urban buildings which stand in every neighbourhood. There a lots of them and most of them are all the same size, painted dark red and they’re really - and I probably shouldn’t say this - pretty boring. There are various web sites which claim to list many of them and perhaps one day I should come back and look at them. I want to keep this simple so I will just mention the Geograph web sites – “photograph every grid square” - and note some of their contributors have looked at some local substation examples. https://www.geograph.org.uk/
I checked substations with Greenwich Council’s site on locally listed historic buildings. There are just three substations in the Borough on it. They are: the LESC building in Greenwich High Road, the Tramshed in Woolwich and the railway building in Troughton Road in Charlton.
The LESC building is something which I‘ve written about here several times before noting it as the only last remaining relic of the world’s first power station at Deptford. It is still in use and it’s just an ordinary square building with ‘LESC’ on the front for ‘London Electricity Supply Corporation’. The Council’s listing document notes: “ Sub-station of 1891 .....which stepped down high voltage power from Deptford Generating Station ..... unusual survivor from the pioneering days of electrification, which enabled the streets of Greenwich to be lit by electric lighting for the first time, powered at a distance from the first modern – and world’s largest - power station .....substantially intact, an evocative example”.
The next one listed is the Woolwich Tramshed, just up the road from Woolwich Station. Woolwich Council bought this building from London Transport in 1960 and it has had a fairly chequered career ever since, mainly being used as a community theatre. Trying to discover its origins is not easy. Searches on the net will find many, many websites of the various entertainers who’ve been there over the years. Describing its history some say it was a power station generating electricity for the trams.... well, sort of!
In these articles I’ve mentioned a booklet several times; SELIA - about the industrial archaeology of South East London and published in 1980. Yes, it does mention the Tramshed “the former electrical substation of 1900 designed by E. Vincent Harris for the London County Council tramways, misleadingly called ‘the tram shed’.” At least we’ve got the architect’s name even if we haven’t got a clue how they knew what it was. Harris worked for the London County Council at the very start of his career, as a very young man. He went to build many, many civic structures around the country on a monumental scale. Memorably he is reputed, at a dinner for the celebration of his work on his retirement, to have said that he knew that the architectural establishment of the day didn’t like his work and he didn’t much like their’s either.. Another example of a tram depot building by him is the rather larger and very much better known one in Rivington Street in Shoreditch. This version is or was a restaurant, complete with its own Damien Hurst, and described in 2020 by the Guardian as ‘ so now’.
Looking for sources of information about the Tramshed –I found something which I had written myself some 20 years ago. To my embarrassment I haven’t got a clue where I got this piece of information from, but what I said was “electricity substation of 1910 for the London County Council tramways ... designed to look good in a prominent area. Inside was a ten ton overhead crane, switchgear and motor generators.”I had also discovered that a substation was needed as a result of a plan to extend the tram routes to Abbey Wood. With the demise of the tram system in the early 1950s in favour of buses, another use could not be found for these electrical infrastructure buildings. I have since found a 1910 report in the local papers of Woolwich Council’s support for the construction of this building and it says that the electricity itself would originally have been generated at Greenwich Power Station on the riverside in East Greenwich. Indeed a trench for the cable was being dug along Woolwich Road.
So, what does the Council’s listings page say about it? ..” Large structure with single storey workshop ...dressed up in a handsome Mannerist classical style to diminish bulk ...substations needed to be large well-ventilated sheds located at central transport nodes... rare substation associated with tramways .... survival in such a prominent central location is highly significant ... has an important place in London’s transport history.”
The third listed substation is perhaps a little bit more problematic. It’s the big railway substation in Troughton Road adjacent to Charlton Station. What does the Council’s listing document say? “Built in 1926 on site of Charlton station’s coal depot following electrification by the Southern Railway; sited at the end of a single track siding of 1873 which unusually extended into the building. Still in use housing transformers, converters and switchgear ... has features designed on a monumental scale, of historic interest recording technological changes to the railway industry”.
In the 1920s the Southern Railway had converted to a v660V-750V DC third-rail system and relied on a network of substations, often nicknamed "cathedrals" due to their design. I don’t know how many of these exist in our area - I seem to remember a lot more of them - and I am sufficiently ignorant to not even make a guess. There is certainly another one where the railway crosses White Hart Road in Plumstead and that is not listed.
It was apparently a ‘rotary converter station’ which means that it converted incoming power for the railway’s use. In the early 20th century when our local railway lines were electrified the current was distributed from the generating stations – probably from Deptford Power Station. It went to substations that contained transformers, in order to step-down the voltage, and "rotary converters" -huge motor-generators -to convert from alternating to direct current. In the 1940s the Southern Railway developed and used a standard design which had outdoor high-voltage switchgear and transformers, and a mercury-arc rectifier. They went out of use by approximately 1954 and following completion of the "change of frequency" scheme in the London Area - the SR traction network was connected to the national grid at 66kV / 33kv and the introduction of 50Hz mercury-arc rectifier equipment in the substations – enabled the abolition of the 11kV radial HV network. The rotary equipment was removed from the substations and the large holes in the upper floors filled in. Charlton was “downgraded to a TPH in the CoF scheme”. In the rotary subs days these stations were manned 24/7.The equipment would be shut at the end of each day and started up again in the morning. The nights were used for maintenance & cleaning and they were kept spotless.
There is one more old substation which I am surprised is not in the list of listed buildings from the from the Council. I was told about this building some time ago by, much missed, Neil Rhind. I have written already in this series of articles about the Blackwall Point Power Station which was sited at the end of what is now John Harrison Way - and the jetty out in the river now which was its coaling jetty. They had a contract to power Greenwich trams and they had three substations - one in Crooms Hill, one in Westcombe Hill and one in Blackheath Park. The ones in Crooms and Westcombe Hills are long gone - and I’m not even really sure where exactly they were. The one in Blackheath Park is still there. It is at the back and in the courtilege of the Concert Halls, in Blackheath Park. It is a very substantial building and quite tall. It is marked on old maps as ‘electricity substation’ and appears in them from the early 20th century. I am not sure when it stopped being used, and what its current function is. It is however an impressive building, larger than most such sub stations and with a decorative grille over the door. Why isn’t it listed?
(Thanks to Bob for
sourcing technical information used above)