I’m supposed to be writing here about industry in Greenwich but lately I’ve been straying a bit over the borders into Lewisham and Bexley and places like that. I hope our editor will forgive me - but he’s got to be even more forgiving this week because I thought we should go on a nice late summer holiday, perhaps to Brazil. A good holiday should be by the seaside and I thought we could go to the radioactive black sands at Guarapari.
I don’t normally watch TV but I have watched the programme on tbe
BBC in the last few weeks in which Brazil has featured. This has been ‘Celebrity
Race Across the World’ where the teams have been going down through Brazil. It is such a vast huge country and it was
worth watching for all the amazing scenery in between the bus stations the
programme is so keen on. I kept watching it in the hope we’d see the
radioactive sands but no such luck. Perhaps they thought it would be bad for
trade
There is, of course, a background to this and I want to describe the
adventures in Brazil of an important man from Greenwich - he lived in Westcombe
Park Road and was the manager of East Greenwich gas works. I wrote a bit about
him here six weeks or so ago when I did an article about the gas mantle factory
down in West Greenwich and how Joseph Tysoe, the Manager of East Greenwich Gas
works, had been sent to Brazil in 1902 by the Company. He went in order to investigate
sources of monazite which was the source of Thorium which was needed to make
gas mantles for lighting. Thirty or so years earlier Tysoe had worked at a gas
works in Brazil so – I assume – it was thought he would ‘understand’ it there.
Clearly South Met. Gas hoped to corner the supply of monazite and establish a
monopoly of gas mantle manufacture at their Greenwich factory on Deptford Creek.
Learning about his adventures had originally been sparked by Brian
Sturt’s article ‘Joseph Tysoe and Monazite
Sand. (Historic Gas Times 106 Dec 2021 – available from the Institution of Gas
Engineers). The kind staff at the National Gas Archive sent me a copy of Tysoe’s
own account of his adventures in Brazil and I thought you might like to hear
about them too. it must have taken him
weeks to get to Brazil by ship and he was away for many months. Today I can
follow his tracks very happily on Google Street View and visit the cities he
was at a century ago. Also I don’t have to actually step on the radioactive
beach
Tysoe arrived in Rio de Janeiro at the end of April and found
himself immediately engaged with government officials and with the Brazilian Ministry
of Finance and it was over a month before he could move away from Rio. In the mean time, while negotiating, he was
staying at the Grand International Hotel in Santa Teresa. I’m afraid that the
hotel has long since been demolished –but the road it was in winds pleasantly
up the hillside with amazing views down into the City. Tysoe was very impressed
with the view of ‘universal red tiled roofs’ and much else. In particular he
was very pleased to see the Rio Gas Works with its holders ‘standing up
prominently in the middle distance making up a picture which must be seen to be
appreciated’.
I’m afraid I’m not entirely
sure exactly where the Rio gas works was and I couldn’t see any gas holders
around now. The gas industry in Rio in the 19th century was British
owned and Company meetings were held at the Cannon Street Hotel in London and
the engineers were all of them British. I
can see perhaps that people in Rio might not have been that keen on its gas
works being run from the other side of the world. Anyway
Tysoe looked out over Rio and
said ‘every prospect pleases’.
He left Rio by steamship which wasn’t, he said, “first class from
an English standpoint”. He went to a
place down the coast called Victoria which he said was ‘beautiful viewed from a
distance’. On Street View there is
actually a motorway now which goes across the Bay so that you can get a very
good view of what Tysoe would have seen as he came in by steamship – but today,
like everywhere else, it’s all tower blocks.
As the ship came into the Bay Tysoe noticed a derelict gas works –
‘all that was left being the guide framing of the holder and various pipes’. He
found that 20 years earlier the town had been lit by gas but it was a Brazilian
owned company which had been unable to make it a success. Lighting in the town
was now by kerosene. There were also vultures perched in the ruins. He said
there were lots of vultures and it was illegal to kill them because they ‘acted
as the sanitary authority and removed refuse from the streets’.
Happily for Tysoe he didn’t have to stay in Victoria because he
had a letter of introduction to an Englishman and moved to his house on an island
2 miles away. For which he was very
thankful. But he needed to go to where
the monazite deposits sites were. The nearest were at Guarapari where the deposits
are on the shore. He explained that the Brazilian state had claimed ownership
and granted concessions for working them but the federal government had
realised ‘there was money in it’ and claimed
it to be theirs. This was going to have to be sorted out.
Tysoe had been given that an introduction to a ‘Doctor Silviera da
Motta who was Chief of the Demarcation Committee’ and he set about trying to
find him at Guarapari. To get there he had been lent the Custom House
steam launch but the weather was too bad to go and when,
later ,it was good enough to clear the
Bay there were such heavy seas that they
had to go back. Eventually they went and it was a ‘rough passage of five hours’
and he experienced ‘no little anxiety’.
He said Guarapari was largely composed of mud hovels and the only
accommodation to be obtained there was of a primitive description. Today it is
all flashy tower blocks along the coast and inland are traditional houses and a
decent but modest little town. I’m also sure that the food is a lot better than
Tysoe got. He stayed at ‘what was described as a hotel’ and ate his dinner
which consisted of one course by the light of one candle
They travelled by mule to the beaches where the monazite deposits
were - or are - and he described in some detail how it was dug, washed and
bagged up. He thought it was similar to
gold mining. There is a background to this – monazite had been processed and exported
since 1886 by an English (or American) engineer called John Gordon. He had
dealt with it on behalf of French and German interests and presumably provided
supplies to the Welsbach Company who had been the principle manufactures of gas
mantles. He had had a concession at Guarapari which had been withdrawn, but his
men were still engaged in processing previously dug deposits and shipping it
off to Germany
Today the ‘black beaches’ are very much in evidence at Guarapari
and you can walk along a seaside path –lined inland by expensive looking blocks
– and look at them. There seems to be nothing
stopping you accessing them and indeed some people seem to be sitting on them. Tysoe may be forgiven for ignoring the radio
activity but today it also doesn’t seem to be an issue.
Tysoe left quite quickly following a long talk with Dr.Motta meant
to return to Victoria by the steam launch. He then discovered to his dismay
that one of its boiler tubes had given way the previous evening. He was grateful
that the tube had not failed during the voyage ‘as nothing could have saved us
on that rocky coast’. the next day steam
was got up but the tube failed again and he decided immediately to return to
Victoria by land, getting himself a horse and a guide for the purpose
The ride took two days with an overnight stay half way. He was very pleased that he had got the horse not only that it was safer but the ‘scenery and objects of interest the forest were full recompense for the inconvenience’. He was then four days in Victoria before he went back to Rio and he left the place ‘without one pang of regret’. Once in Rio he managed to prevent the contract for the deposits being given to a Brazilian syndicate and made sure it was thrown open to ‘ree and fair’ public competition.
Clearly he had failed to get any concessions for South Met Gas. He said that he thought he was successful because he had stopped the concession being automatically given to a Brazilian company. In fact once he left that’s exactly what happened. Today we can understand the Brazilians’ wish to control their mineral assets themselves. This is not about colonialism but the other process which gets less attention whereby the natural assets and management of a ‘third world’ country were owned and controlled by European capital interests.
Tysoe clearly hated his mission and couldn’t wait to get back to Westcombe Park and also see that the management of east Greenwich gas works had survived without him.
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