Leaving Ballast
Quay to walk along the riverside path we are moving into a different area. At
one time there would have been a gate here – a gate into Greenwich Marsh. The Marsh was set up with special marshland
rules in the early 17h century. It has
its own ruling body, the Wallscot Court, which levied is own rates – double for
the west side and single for the east. The
court was made up of landowners and tenants.
The largest landowner on the marsh was Morden College and they as we
will see, owned a long stretch of the west bank where the path will take us
first.
The
riverside here was well used by watermen and the like. Inland was the 'Great Meadow'. To the south of this was 'Willow Walk' which
ran along a dyke. Willow Walk became Pelton Road which ends at the river bank
here.
In the mid 19th century
Morden College began to develop their stretch of marshland for industry. They divided the river bank area up into
parcels of land and appointed head leaseholders who were expected to sub-let to
respectable and well behaved industries.
The first parcel was the first area after Ballast Quay. Until 2012 or so
this was called Lovell’s Wharf but now new flats are known as Riverside
Gardens. In the 1840s it was called Greenwich Wharf and the head leaseholder
was Mr. Coles Child.
William Coles Child was a young man who had
taken over his family's coal trade business nrar Waterloo, They were 'Coal
Merchants, Coke Burners and Wharfingers'.
The coal came from ports on the North East coast and its transport to London
was a massive industry. He owned gravel
pits, and a brick works in Bromley and lived in what had been the Bishops
Palace. In Greenwich he worked with
Morden College to build the housing estate which stands here along Pelton Road.
In
1838 Child signed an 80-year lease with Morden College for six acres of the Great
Meadow to 'form wharves and erect manufactories'. He was to call this Greenwich Wharf. In 1839 he built new road to the river
along the line of Willow Walk and called it Pelton Road after a Durham
colliery. By 1840 coke ovens, a
limekiln, storehouse and stable and been built and were in operation but a soap
boiler who applied for a site was turned down, By 1841 'Grey Stone and other
limes' were beg produced. Coles
Child advertised that he could supply coal and coke 'at a considerable
reduction in price' compared to other suppliers. He boasted of facilities for the discharge of
coal from ships 'of any tonnage' at Greenwich Wharf. He also claimed that he
was the 'largest manufacturer of Oven Coke in England' - and could service
'Directors of Railways, Maltsters, Ironfounders and Consumers’. . Local people seem to have been glad to see
this development – bring jobs and prosperity to the area.
The
wharf passed into the hands of two managers and became known as Whiteway's
Wharf. They advertised 'Caradoc's
Wallsend' and Jonasshon's Wallsend' coal. They also operated a cement works there
and bricks were made on site. Eventually in the 1870s Coles Child died and parts
of the wharf were leased to others. One of these was John Waddell, another coal
merchant who supplied domestic customers and had a local office in one of the
nicer parts of Blackheath
For
a short time in the 1880s an ice merchant, John Ashby, rented
part of the site. From the 1890s onwards
there was an ice well on part of the site. Commercial ice suppliers brought ice
from Norway by boat, stored and sold to provide domestic and commercial
refrigeration.
By
1918 the river along this frontage was silting up rapidly. All round the wharf
were houses and shops. Most of the surrounding housing had been built by Coles
Child to the direction of Morden College’s surveyor George Smith. Many of the
streets and terrace are named after the Durham collieries from which the coal
came
Until around 2002 people walking on from
the Cutty Sark pub were confronted with two giant cranes –'Scotch derricks'. The
name 'Lovells' was in large white lettering on the wharf wall, above the path,
and on the gable of the buildings. By the 1920s the coal business on the
wharf’ was declining and the nature of the work there changed
Shaw
Lovell leased the site in the late 1920s.
They were a family business dating from 1869 who came from Bristol. Charles
Shaw Lovell had an office in the City
of London office se for his work as a 'Shipping and Forwarding Agent' and he
was soon in effective charge of the Bristol Navigation Company. In 1908 the business was incorporated as
'Cashew Lovell & Sons Ltd.' The
company had used the wharf at Greenwich before the Great War and in, 1911 they
bought the lease on the wharf
Under
Lovells the wharf was soon thriving handling of non-ferrous metals. In the
1920s the company played a major part in dealing with scrap metal from First
World War battlefields. The odd unexploded shell was, no doubt, only one of the
hazards. There was also a sideline in
the export of stone for war grave headstones. Lovell's purchased ships of their
own to carry on the metal trade - Innisulva, Innishannan, Tower Bridge and
Eiffel Tower. They also owned a tug and
two lighters. At Greenwich Wharf was a
London Metals Exchange approved warehouse for the storage of copper, zinc and
lead.
In
the 1960s Lovell House was built in Pelton Road as the head office for Lovell's
Sea Container Trade. A large computer system was installed there. In due course Lovell House was taken over by
the Greater London Council and used by the local authority for their education
social work service. It was demolished along with the rest of the site and
sadly a number of commemorative plaques were not kept – nor was an amazing
carpet with the words ‘Lovell’s Wharf’woven into it. The site had however been
drawn and painted by many artists and I
am aware that there may be collectioms of art works in private houses – many of
them homes of people who worked on site.
In
due course the container revolution diminished the amount of work available for
the wharf, retreat to their Bristol base. However In the early 1980s the two
'Butters' canes – actually more properly called ‘Scotch derricks - which had
been brought here from Dublin in the 1970s were moved to a central position on
the wharf. In 1982 the wharf handled
118,000 tons of cargo - steel, aluminium, galvanised sheeting and gas pipes as
well as timber and some other items. Lovell's were proud of their experience
and the techniques developed to handle specialist cargoes. In all this work the two riverside cranes
played a key role.
The
two cranes were a dramatic local feature - much photographed and the subject of
many paintings and drawings. Such equipment was once very common around the
Port of London but has now completely disappeared. After Shaw Lovell left the
wharf there was a strong local campaign to keep the cranes. It proved
surprisingly difficult to find anything very much out about them and even Shaw
Lovell's records did not reveal very much.
They probably dated from before 1950.
It emerged that the brass number plates had been removed – and thus
their manufacturers, however helpful, could not identity them,
In
1999 the wharf had been empty for many years.
Lovells surrendered their lease but the wharf was occasionally used for
the storage and transshipment of building materials. In 2000 the two cranes
were removed by Morden College very early one morning and with no consultation
In
due course the site was bought by developers and flats were planned. The Council said that part of the planning
consent meant that the river must be used for removal of waste and
deliveries. The developers said this was
not possible. I was really cheered up at
a public meeting when this was said, and Lovell’s ex-site foreman stood up to
say that he and his old team would be happy to show them how to do it! .
The
site is now all flats and the fight of local residents to keep the height of
the blocks down so as not to block out their light is another story – better
told by them. It was then briefly called Greenwich Wharf again but this was
changed to 'Riverside Gardens' and we were told that the developers' publicity
team had insisted. The riverside has
been all tidied up and you can no longer walk by the river but have to go several
yards inland competing with the cyclists. There is a children’s playground,
which, at least to start with, children were too scared to use. A hundred and seventy years of industry here
has come and gone leaving no trace
Sources
Eric Jorden. 'The
story of Lovell's Shipping' Eric Jorden 1992
I have Witten a number of articles on Lovell’s Wharf and
Coles Child including a booklet in 2016 called ‘Lovell's Wharf’.
The story of the housing on the Morden College estate and
the Durham stet names are interesting but not really relevant here. It is covered in an article in Greenwich and
Lewisham, Antiquarian Transactions by Michael Kearney ??
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