My last article was about Ordnance Wharf and the South Met.
Gas works tar works attached to the giant East Greenwich Gas Works on the
Greenwich Peninsula. I read somewhere recently that the riverside wall round
the gas works was nearly a mile long – and I can sort of believe it although I
haven’t measured it. If we keep walking onwards from Ordnance
Wharf along the very boring bit of the riverside path round the back of the
Dome, it does feel like a long way. I
hope no-one minds me commenting that this could be a fantastic bit of the
Greenwich riverside if someone bothered opening it up and putting something
there, instead of hiding themselves inside the Dome. All I can see now is fences
But never mind – we soon go past that half boat- an artwork
called– Slice of Reality. It’s a slice of a sand dredger called Arco Trent and
it’s been there since 2000 when it was a piece of art commissioned for the
millennium. It's by Richard Wilson and here’s a link to his web site where he
tells you all about it. http://www.richardwilsonsculptor.com/sculpture/slice-of-reality-2000.html. This whole bit of riverside path is part of the sculpture trail
called 'The Line' which starts over in the Olympic Park and then crosses over
to Greenwich – but then ends before it gets to some of the art works to the
south, like Enderby Wharf https://the-line.org/#/artists/4. As we go along the path at the back of the
Dome we encounter another art work called 'Liberty Grip' by Gary Hume
which is ‘modelled on the
limbs of a store mannequin’..... a mass-produced, utilitarian object on a
colossal scale’.
And
as we go on remember the Blackwall Tunnel is below us and I will do something
on the history of that in a future article. Eventually, as we emerge from the
path, we come to what is now the clipper jetty which was called ‘Queen Elixabeth
Pier’ but now just seems to be ‘North Greenwich pier’. Just beyond it is
another sculpture – 'Quantum Cloud' by Anthony Gormley. It has been there since
2000 when it was commissioned for the millennium and, personally, I like it a
lot.
However
at Quantum Cloud, have a look at what it is standing on. Here is one of the few
relics of East Greenwich Gas works – some small part of the great jetty which
once stood here.
The basic raw material of any gas works was of course coal. For Thameside gas works this came down in vast quantities by ship from ports servicing the Durham and Northumberland coal fields. It was a major industry and one which gets very little attention. Even in peace time and good weather it was a dangerous journey and the crews of these ships were some of the toughest and most exploited, yet ignored, members of the industrial workforce. South Met.’s House journal has occasional articles from young men – usually office workers in the company – who had persuaded a collier captain to let them come along for a trip from Seaham to Greenwich. They were routinely terrified all the way down the coast reaching south London with some relief. I hope to quote some of these in another future article. I am sure the crews enjoyed frightening these landsmen and there are other tales of the horrors of the passage ‘the ship is straining plunging and labouring heavily into the high sea.. we are watching for her to clear herself from the mass of water she has shipped... we took a heavy sea aboard right aft and smashed our life raft’.
They
had been coming down the coast with coal since medieval times and by the 19th
century the river was crowded out with ships. I have written elsewhere about
the regulatory system which the Greenwich Harbour Masters house was part of. At Charlton the hulk, Atlas, clanked out in
the river in a big transhipment operaton.
In the 20th century all the big gas companies – South Met., Chartered
and Wandsworth (and the power stations)- had their own fleets of vessels doing
the round trip from Durham. When they
stopped coming in the 1980s we had the awful shock of an empty and deserted
river – which continues to this day.
South
Met had its own fleet of collier ships – and I will probably have to leave the
details about them for another article.
The company’s first gas works was in the Old Kent Road – inland but on
the Grand Surrey Canal. They had begun with a second hand barge called Thomas
and then began to charter boats to carry the coal. When I wrote here last year
about the West Greenwich gas works – where Waitrose is now on Deptford Creek –
I described how this site became South Met’s lighterage department from 1887 and how they
operated three tugs, a dock tug –which worked on the surrey canal - and over a
hundred barges of various types. The company launched its first tug the ‘George
Livesey’ in 1887 but others followed.
The collier
ships themselves were obviously much larger ocean going vessels. A new collier brought into service in 1946 could
carry 4,050 tons of coal – twice the capacity of older vessels. It could be
loaded in a day and a half and could be discharged at East Greenwich in 12
hours using four grabs. She would make three round trips a fortnight. The coal
was delivered to jetties at Greenwich and at Rotherhithe (where their huge
jetty still survives). There were also facilities at Bankside and at Vauxhall Gas
Works although not on the same scale. Once
unloaded coal was taken around the works by special locomotives – and perhaps
that had better be the subject of another article as well as all the others
I’ve been promising.
So – the great
jetty at east Greenwich gas works. This stood on the site of what is now the
clipper pier and it was certainly one of the sights as you went down
river. It was built in the late 1880s
with the rest of this new works. It was built by Appleby Brothers – whose
engineering works on the west bank of the peninsula I described a few months
ago.
It provided
facilities for unloading ships with coal from the north east and for loading
ships with coke or ballast. At first
ships were unloaded by men in the hold with buckets and the coal was then
craned to railway wagons. In 1903 it was extended and became T shaped. On the
new arm were four travelling hydraulic cranes with a grab to lift the coal from
the ships. The coal was discharged to four large overhead hoppers and then loaded
into railway wagons below. After the
Second World War the jetty was altered again to discharge oil tankers.
The jetty could
deal with a million tons of coal a year and about a quarter of it went into
barges to be taken to the company's other works. Ships were berthed out in the
river at high tide and as the tide fell they rested on the mud.
I have been
told many times by men who worked there that the whole operation was remarkably
quiet and that the hydraulic cranes were completely silent. I have always understood that – being a gas works
–no electrical equipment was allowed here. But I don’t know exactly how the
operation was powered. The jetty was pulled down for the millennium and the new
clipper pier built – but it is difficult to know if it could have been adapted
for any other use as just the supports for the Gormley artwork remain.
A few years ago
local gas historian Brian Sturt, highlighted the gas workers war memorial
window in Southwark Cathedral. This dates from 1923 and is in the Lady Chapel. 32 of the war dead were seafarers on company
ships bringing the coal to London. A
great deal is written about the hard working conditions and the suffering of
the men who mined the coal and the men who worked in the retort houses of the
gas works. We hear next to nothing of the heroic men of the merchant marine
without whom neither the mines nor the gas works could have functioned.
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